Michigan Home Inspection Guide:
What Every Buyer Needs to Know

Structural integrity is the single most important thing an inspector evaluates, because everything else in the home depends on a sound frame and foundation. The inspector examines load-bearing walls, floor joists, ceiling joists, rafters, beams, and posts for signs of movement, cracking, sagging, or improper modification.

In Southeast Michigan's older housing stock, particularly the brick bungalows and colonials built from the 1940s through the 1960s in Livonia, Redford, Dearborn, Garden City, and the older sections of Plymouth and Canton, inspectors frequently find evidence of prior renovations that may not have been permitted or professionally engineered. Removed load-bearing walls, notched floor joists, and DIY basement beam installations are common findings. Not every modification is a crisis, but unpermitted structural changes deserve follow-up with a licensed structural engineer.

Look for diagonal cracks at window and door corners, doors that stick or will not latch, floors that slope noticeably, and gaps between walls and ceilings. These can indicate settlement, frost heave, or lumber movement. Michigan's freeze-thaw cycles are hard on foundations and framing, especially on homes with poor exterior drainage. A hairline crack in a poured foundation wall is often cosmetic. A crack that is widening at the top, accompanied by bowing or horizontal displacement, is not.

Your inspector will also note whether additions, enclosed porches, and garage conversions appear structurally integrated with the original home or simply attached. In Michigan, unheated additions and Michigan rooms (three-season spaces) are common, and the transition points between old and new construction are where moisture and structural problems often begin.

Foundation problems are among the most expensive repairs in residential real estate, and they are distressingly common in Michigan homes with poor drainage, mature tree root systems, and decades of freeze-thaw stress. Your inspector will examine foundation walls (poured concrete, concrete block, or stone), the sill plate where the frame meets the foundation, floor slabs, and signs of water intrusion or movement.

Poured concrete walls are standard in post-1950 construction across Canton, Novi, Brighton, and most suburban developments. Block foundations are common in pre-1960 homes and are more susceptible to bowing and mortar joint deterioration. Stone foundations appear in pre-war homes and early post-war construction in established neighborhoods. Each type has different failure patterns and repair costs.

Frost heave is a Michigan-specific concern. When moisture in the soil freezes and expands, it can push against foundation walls and displace slabs, sidewalks, and driveways. Signs include cracked and uneven garage aprons, step cracks in block walls, and basement floors that have heaved or cracked along control joints. Exterior grading that slopes toward the house rather than away compounds the problem by directing water against the foundation.

Basement waterproofing is a major industry in Southeast Michigan for good reason. Many homes have interior drain tile, sump pumps, or exterior waterproofing systems installed after years of seepage. An existing sump pump is not necessarily a red flag; many Michigan homes need them. But a sump that runs constantly, efflorescence (white mineral deposits) on walls, and active water stains tell you the foundation is managing ongoing hydrostatic pressure.

The plumbing inspection covers supply lines, drain lines, fixtures, the water heater, and water pressure throughout the home. Your inspector runs faucets, flushes toilets, checks under sinks for leaks, evaluates the water heater's age and condition, and notes the material of visible supply and drain piping.

Galvanized steel supply lines, common in homes built before 1960, corrode from the inside out and eventually restrict water flow and cause discolored water. Many Southeast Michigan bungalows and colonials still have partial galvanized runs even after kitchen and bath updates. Copper and PEX are modern standards. Cast iron drain lines are durable but can crack with age and root intrusion at exterior connections.

Water heater age and capacity matter for family-sized households. A 40-gallon tank may be adequate for a couple but insufficient for a family of five with back-to-back showers. Tankless units require different maintenance and venting considerations. Check the manufacture date on the label (often encoded in the serial number) and budget for replacement if the unit is past 10 to 12 years.

Low water pressure can indicate corroded galvanized lines, a failing pressure regulator, or municipal supply issues. High pressure can stress fixtures and water heaters. Your inspector notes pressure qualitatively; a plumber can measure precisely if concerns arise. Sump pump discharge lines, foundation drain connections, and the main sewer cleanout location are also documented, setting the stage for a sewer scope if recommended.

Windows and exterior doors are the thermal weak points of any home, and in Michigan's climate they matter enormously for both comfort and energy costs. Your inspector checks that windows open, close, and lock properly; evaluates glazing condition (single-pane, double-pane, failed seals); notes condensation between panes; and looks for rot in wood frames and sills.

Original single-pane windows in 1950s and 1960s brick colonials are charming but thermally inefficient. Condensation on interior glass in winter, drafty sashes, and rotting wood sills are routine findings. Storm windows can help but are not a permanent substitute for replacement. Failed double-pane seals (cloudy glass) mean the insulating argon gas is gone and the window has lost most of its thermal benefit.

Exterior doors should close and seal against weatherstripping without gaps. Garage-to-house doors must be fire-rated and self-closing in most jurisdictions. Sliding patio doors are notorious for track wear, lock failures, and seal breakdown. French doors and older steel doors in mid-century ranches often need weatherstripping replacement and hardware adjustment.

Window and door replacement is expensive ($500 to $1,500 per opening installed), so prioritize rooms you will use most and address failed seals and rot first. Drafty windows are not a reason to walk away from an otherwise solid home, but they are a reason to adjust your first-year ownership budget.

The attic tells stories the main living areas cannot. Your inspector enters the attic when safe and accessible, evaluating roof sheathing condition, framing, insulation depth, ventilation, signs of past or active roof leaks, pest evidence, and proper exhaust fan terminations. In Michigan, the attic is where ice dam damage, inadequate insulation, and ventilation failures become visible.

Water staining on roof sheathing (the plywood or boards beneath shingles) indicates past leaks even if the ceiling below has been painted over. Dark staining, mold growth, and softened wood are active concerns. The pattern of staining often points to the failure location: around chimneys and vent pipes (flashing issues), along eaves (ice dams), or in valleys (debris accumulation and worn shingles).

Attic framing reveals whether the roof structure is original, modified, or compromised. Sagging rafters, sistered (reinforced) joists, and cut truss members suggest past problems or unpermitted work. In older homes with finished attic bedrooms, verify that the conversion was done with proper egress windows, adequate floor structure, and code-compliant access.

Pest evidence (rodent droppings, chewed insulation, wasp nests) is common in Michigan attics, especially in homes near wooded areas in Northville, Plymouth Township, Brighton, and South Lyon. Pest issues are usually manageable but should be addressed before you move in. Insulation that has been disturbed by animals loses effectiveness and may need replacement.

Home inspectors test permanently installed appliances that are included in the sale: kitchen range and oven, dishwasher, garbage disposal, microwave (if built-in), and any other appliances specified in the purchase agreement. They verify basic operation, check for leaks at dishwasher and refrigerator water connections, and note age and condition.

Appliance age matters less than appliance function, but both inform your budget. A 15-year-old dishwasher that cleans properly may last several more years. One that leaks, makes grinding noises, or fails to complete cycles is a near-term replacement ($400 to $1,200). Confirm which appliances the seller is including before inspection day so the inspector knows what to test.

Range hoods and exhaust systems are often overlooked but important. A hood that does not vent to the exterior or has a clogged filter contributes to grease buildup and moisture in the kitchen. Anti-tip brackets on free-standing ranges are a safety item inspectors check; missing brackets are an easy fix but a real hazard in homes with children.

Refrigerators, washers, and dryers are typically personal property unless specifically negotiated into the sale. If they are included, ask the inspector to verify basic operation. Washer drain connections and dryer venting (properly routed to the exterior, not into the attic or crawl space) are safety and maintenance items worth checking.

National home inspection advice misses the realities of buying in Southeast Michigan. Our housing stock, climate, soil conditions, and infrastructure create a specific set of inspection priorities that every local buyer should understand before making an offer.

Older Brick Bungalows and Colonials (1940s–1960s)

Much of the resale inventory in Livonia, Redford, Dearborn, Garden City, Taylor, and the older sections of Plymouth, Canton, and Westland consists of brick bungalows and colonials built in the two decades after World War II. These homes are solidly constructed but carry predictable inspection findings: galvanized supply lines, cast iron drains, undersized electrical panels, minimal attic insulation, original windows, and clay tile sewer connections. They are wonderful homes with good bones. Go in with realistic maintenance expectations.

Winter Inspection Limitations

Michigan winters affect what inspectors can evaluate. Snow-covered roofs, frozen ground hiding drainage problems, and dormant landscaping can mask exterior issues. But winter reveals what summer cannot: heating system performance under load, draft patterns, ice dam evidence, and whether a vacant home has been kept heated to prevent pipe freeze. If you buy in winter, plan spring follow-ups on roof and exterior drainage. Do not treat winter limitations as a reason to skip inspection.

Radon in Michigan Basements

Michigan has elevated radon potential, and basements (present in the majority of Southeast Michigan homes) are the primary exposure zone. Every buyer should test during the inspection period, regardless of what the seller reports from a test five years ago. See the radon section below for testing and mitigation details.

Clay Tile Sewer Lines

Homes built before 1980 in established communities frequently have clay tile or cast iron sewer laterals that are vulnerable to root intrusion, settlement, and collapse. A sewer scope inspection is cheap insurance on these properties. See the sewer scope section for guidance on when to order one.

Knob-and-Tube and Federal Pacific Panels

Pre-1950 homes and partially updated older colonials may still contain knob-and-tube wiring. Federal Pacific Stab-Lok panels appear routinely in 1960s and 1970s construction. Both require electrician evaluation and may affect insurance eligibility and repair negotiation strategy.

Ice Dams and Frost Heave

Michigan's freeze-thaw cycle creates two structural enemies: ice dams (roof and attic moisture damage from heat loss) and frost heave (soil expansion that cracks foundations, slabs, and driveways). Inspectors in our market know to look for the telltale signs: ceiling corner staining, damaged soffit, step cracks in block foundations, and uneven garage aprons.

The sewer lateral, the underground pipe connecting your home's plumbing to the municipal sewer main or septic system, is one of the most expensive components to replace and one of the least visible during a standard inspection. A sewer scope inspection sends a waterproof camera through the cleanout into the lateral, revealing cracks, offsets, bellies (low spots where waste accumulates), root intrusion, and collapsed sections.

In Southeast Michigan's older communities, clay tile sewer lines are the norm for homes built before 1980. Tree roots, particularly from mature maples, oaks, and willows common in established neighborhoods, seek the moisture at pipe joints and can infiltrate clay tile over decades. Cast iron laterals, used in some mid-century construction, corrode from the inside and eventually fail at the bottom of the pipe.

Order a sewer scope on any home built before 1980, any home with mature trees between the house and the street, any home where the general inspector notes slow drains or gurgling fixtures, and any home where the seller discloses past sewer backups. The scope costs $200 to $350. A full lateral replacement can run $5,000 to $15,000 or more depending on depth, length, and whether the connection requires city street excavation.

If the scope reveals problems, you have the same negotiation options as any inspection finding: request seller repair or replacement, negotiate a credit, or walk away if the issue exceeds your tolerance. Some municipalities in Wayne and Oakland counties have sewer line warranty programs or shared-cost replacement policies. Ask your agent whether the city has any programs that might reduce your exposure.

Every inspection report includes findings. Even well-maintained homes generate a list of observations, recommendations, and minor defects. The goal is not a spotless report. The goal is understanding which findings matter and which are routine maintenance items you will handle as an owner.

Remember that inspector reports use severity language: "monitor," "recommend evaluation," "safety concern," and "defect" carry different weights. Our Home Inspection Blueprint includes a guide to reading severity ratings and deciding which findings belong on your repair request list versus your first-year maintenance budget.

In competitive Southeast Michigan markets, some buyers waive the inspection contingency to make their offer more attractive. Sellers and listing agents perceive waived inspections as fewer hurdles to closing. In a multiple-offer situation, it can be the difference between acceptance and a polite rejection. I understand the pressure. I still rarely recommend full waiver.

Waiving the inspection contingency means you lose your contractual right to renegotiate or withdraw based on inspection findings. You can still inspect the home for your own information, but the seller has no obligation to address anything you discover. If the inspection reveals a $20,000 foundation problem, you either absorb it or walk away and forfeit your earnest money, depending on your contract language.

A middle ground exists and is worth discussing with your agent: inspection for informational purposes only. You retain the right to inspect and learn the home's condition, but you agree not to request repairs or credits except for major safety or structural defects exceeding a dollar threshold you define in the offer. This gives the seller confidence that you will not nickel-and-dime them over GFCI outlets while preserving your ability to walk away if the foundation is crumbling.

Even buyers who waive the contingency should still hire an inspector. The information has value even without negotiation leverage. You need to know where the shut-offs are, what the panel looks like, and whether the furnace is on its last legs. You just cannot use the findings to reopen negotiations unless your contract specifically allows it.

On older Michigan homes, especially brick bungalows and colonials from the 1940s through 1960s, full waiver is particularly risky. These homes have decades of systems, repairs, and hidden conditions that no walkthrough will reveal. If you are considering waiver to compete, talk to your agent about alternative strategies: stronger earnest money, flexible closing date, appraisal gap coverage, or the informational-only approach. Sometimes the best move is to walk away from a seller who demands full waiver on a 65-year-old home rather than accept unlimited risk.